Tapas on the Mapas

The tapas. We set out in search of bits and bites, mouthfuls and morcels soon after arrival. We had some trouble ordering at first (where to begin -- carnes, fish, seafood, salads, tortillas, brochettes, grilled veggies?), but hit our stride after a few days and after nabbing some choice perches at the bar counters, ordering a few things from the displays, then pointing to creations that the patrons next to us were getting, but we weren't seeing either displayed or on the menu.

Notable highlights were anything with "bacalao" (cod), like pimientos del piquillo rellenos de bacalao, (red peppers stuffed with cod paste), pimientos de padrón, (small green peppers, fried and sea-salted), sepiones a la plancha (grilled cuttlefish), boquerones en vinagre (sardine fillets in vinegar) and pulpo a la gallega (Galician octopus).

We also finally mastered the "menu del dia" -- the lunch special -- consisting of una primera, un segundo, pan, bebida y postre. Choice of firsts, seconds, bread, drink and dessert. We were astonished to learn (and the waiter amused to hear us inquire) that we could choose any drink at all -- he graciously listed them all -- we could even have champaña, if we so desired! (Keep in mind, this was no 4-star joint -- just a local lunch spot, complete with key-at-the-counter for the ladies' loo.) The standout here was the 1st course combo plate of jamon (ham) and pineapple -- a decisive victory over the dough-delivered Hawaiian version.

On our last night in Barcelona, we returned to the Gracia district for more grub. We'd decided to check out "Sureny," claimed (as per TimeOut Barcelona) to be a hidden gastronomical gem, and happened to be just 2 doors down from the "llar de foc" that we'd enjoyed so much on the lazy Sunday previous. Suspicious of any gourmet pretentions, we approached the restaurant with cautious optimism and a wadful of Euros. The meal started out on a strange and surprising note with cod cream and red pepper puree, topped with a slick of soft blood sausage (the concoction served in a wine glass!). A rich treat to be sure. Highlights from the next several hours of culinary oohs and ahhs included...

...banana tubes filled with red curry foam and tiger prawns ...

... deer sirloin with tangerine sauce...

...and, lastly, scallop tartare with shitake mushrooms and strawberry vinaigrette.

We were too stunned by the first round of ordering to get photos -- we enjoyed the tuna with ginger and lime, the suckling pig and the green peppers al Padron just as much -- and remember them well. Each dish was better and even more artfully arranged than the last and we left feeling like we had been treated to something truly special.

We thought it an appropriate homage to the Plateau to duck into nearby "Elsa Bar" for farewell-to-Barcelona cocktails. This Else's was run by Elsa, from Cuba, who'd been a known stage singer in Havana, as advertised by the posters and assorted nostalgia decorating the bar. Now in Barcelona, Elsa'd moved from mixing show tune line-ups to mixing mean mojitos. The process was lovingly long and elaborate; we thought it should be documented, and Elsa kindly obliged. Here's the how-to: