Riga, Part I

Canadians don't need visas to enter Estonia, but vagabonds who haven't been granted work permits are only allowed to lounge about the country for 90 days within a 6-month period. To avoid wearing out my 90-day welcome long before my departure date, the idea is to excurse to neighbouring countries on weekends and on J's lengthy teaching breaks, thus avoiding what's purportedly a hefty fine for days-over-the-limit and benefiting from Estonia's proximity to destinations relatively unfamiliar.

We left Thursday, lunchtime, on Sidetrip no. 1, boarding a Eurolines bus heading for Riga, Latvia. Hotels were pricey, Riga being the next bright star on the European mini-break route, easily accessible by EasyJet, Europe's budget airline. Prices listed in last year's Lonely Planet were already a third higher or more. Some poking around churned up Central-Hostel, a great find for a great price in a great neighbourhood -- away from the touristy trappings of Riga's old town.

The currency in Latvia is the Lat (LVL). Since one of these is equal to around $2.20 CAD, and the smallest bill is a fiver (11 bucks worth), change and cents are important here. Here's J at the Central-Hostel, working out LVL to CAD to Euro to EEK currency conversions with his inner-ear abacus. Not very hostel-ish, in fact... the only thing making it so is the shared (with 3 other private rooms) WC and shower.

We were pretty disappointed with the Riga section of the Lonely Planet -- written by a "Becca Blonde". Yes, Becca, I'd have used a pseudonym, too. (Fewer complaints for her confrere, "Regis St. Louis", who provided the Estonian portion of the Baltic guide.) Hungry from the bus ride, we set off to find a pelmeni place that was recommended -- it no longer existed in that location, whether it ever had (other addresses were wrong). We had some food at the cafe chain that had replaced it, then set off to the old town to find some drinks and entertainments -- one of the Riga Black Balzam bars we tried to go to did not exist -- in wintertime, at least -- as the map location put it right in the middle of a square. We sipped a Balzam anyway, in some other place, and flipped through the weeklies for other options.

One bar called "Bumerangs" boasted "A pleasant atmosphere, bar, billiard, slot machines from world's leading producers -- IGT, Aristocrat, Atronic, Franco, Bally and Novomatic". (Never considered the importance of knowing who manufactured your slot machine. More later about Riga's serious gambling problem.) We opted for "Alcatraz" instead ("the staff scurries about in prison wardrobe managing to remain cheerful whilst bidding [sic] their time"), hoping to find a Latvian country or rock band. The prison garb was less 'prison,' and more 'Maxwell Taylor's', c. 1989. The only thing "maximum security" about the joint was the ridiculous attempt at face control and cover charge -- immediately upon entering, we were warned there would be a 2 Lat charge for the live music (of which there was none -- nor were there any other patrons). A dreary place.

Next morning, we headed out to the suburbs, to Riga's awesome Motormuseum. Here's a sneak peek, but visit J's blog for more details & more photos.